I headed away from "civilisation" and skirted Stackpole Warren dunes. There is a massive hole in the ground here. I have seen plenty of those, but the difference with this one is that there is a path down into it. I looked down into it, but decided against further investigation. I checked my watch and estimated I would arrive at Penally at about 5.30ish. The rain came a little harder and the wind got noticeably stronger so on went the "waterproof" jacket. I am always loathe to put on the over-trousers, as they make you feel so ungainly and restricted. I decided that this rain wasn't quite bad enough to warrant the trousers yet. This was a mistake, as the rain was the insidious sort that slowly soaks you through. I took a photo' of the natural arch that is large enough to sail a ship through and pressed on towards Barafundle Bay. (I think it sounds a bit Australian that, "Barafundle"). The weather was far from Australian though as the wind became more brisk and blustery. There were just four hardy youngsters on the beach throwing a frisbee about, but they soon disappeared as one of them inevitably threw it into the sea and they lost it. After Stackpole Quay, the cliffs changed colour. The red Sandstone was in stark contrast to the White Limestone I had been used to seeing, and I wished the weather was nicer for photography.
From here on, the path is a bit roller coaster-ish. I climbed and dropped steeply, almost losing my footing a couple of times. I rounded Greenala Point and Trewent Point before dropping again down into Freshwater East. The guide dismisses Freshwater East in a couple of sentences. I suggest you don't just "pass Freshwater East" , but call in especially if you need refreshment or communication. There are three phone boxes, a general store and a pub. "The Miracle Inn". Although it looks a bit "Heath Robinson", and it's a "miracle" it's standing, I went in, as the rain was thrashing down and I sought shelter. I found the food and drink both good and reasonably priced. I talked with three lads from the West Midlands who were going to try to get as far as Castlemartin. This would be a hell of a push in good weather, but TODAY!!! rather them than me.
I felt sorry for them that it was such a bad day, as they would be passing arguably the best scenery on the path. They shouldered their sacks with enthusiasm and went. I looked out of the window at the even worse weather, sighed and shouldered mine. I got a little lost, taking a path upwards too soon. There are loads of paths here, but again no signs. I suggest you just walk along the beach, not through the dunes, and right at the far end you will find the path. I took seldom few photo's from here, and the weather just kept deteriorating even more. The rain was driven into stinging needles by a strong South Westerly wind. The water had got through my leather boots, but worse still had begun to penetrate the map case. Of all the things I wanted to stay dry, the map case was the most important. I could see the pages of the guide going soggy. From here to Lydstep Haven there is some nice scenery, but for me it was head down and push on time. For most of the time I was staggering into the teeth of the gale, turning my head against the stinging rain, and it was slowing my pace dramatically. Consulting my watch confirmed that It would be much later than I had first thought before I would be "home and dry". I passed what I can only describe as the Eyesore of Lydstep Haven caravan site. I have not been used to many signs of habitation -- the odd tent here and there -- but this place was like Skegness! As many vans as possible crammed into the land bordering the shore, and for why? This was an awful beach. The view out to sea looked good, but the "beach" was steep and stony. I was glad to leave that portion of the walk behind me. I reached the path from the Army range to Penally and gratefully descended. I looked at my watch, it was 7.10pm. It had taken 10 hours to get here. I wondered how Robert had fared and was glad I hadn't undertaken the same journey.
When I found my B&B, they converted it into a drying room. My things were hanging everywhere. I had a shower, went out and got something to eat and returned early at 9.30pm to carry out "sock turning" duty. It was about 11.30pm when I finally turned in.